SUBURBS OF ULAANBAATAR
Tuvkhen Monastery
In a remote, tiny valley 2,500 metres above sea level, it was first built in 1683 (other sources say 1653). It has been renovated from 1937 photograph and old timer memories. Zanabazar lived here for 30 years - this is where he created the Soyombo, now the national symbol, the Mongolian script and 21 Dari Ekh statuettes (some of which were stolen in 1997, but since recovered). The original wooden buildings were largely demolished by the communist regime in the late 1930's.
It is reached by a difficult three kilometre track, traversable only by foot, horse or four wheel drive vehicle and is backed by a high steep cliff, called 'sentii' (throne), where they say Zanabazar was first consecrated as a monk. There are three 'footprints' in the rock, one said to be of Zanabazar, one of a child, one of a horse. None seem to have been carved or chiselled artificially. There are cracks and niches in the rock, said to be where Zanabazar would isolate himself to meditate.
There are two wells no more than five metres apart, whose waters are of a distinctly different colour and two pines with entwined branches to which Zanabazar is said to have tethered his horse.
You will need to have a guide to get you there and camping gear and supplies to stay, but it is a stunningly beautiful atmospheric and peaceful spot for a day or more of meditation and far too isolated for coach loads of package trippers.
Tuvkhen monastery is located in Ovorkhangai Aimag. Arvaikheer, the administrative center of the aimag, is 430km from Ulaanbaatar. The remains of the monastery is hard to reach. There is an indirect road which runs about 30 km from the north bank of the Orkhon Gol, about 50 km from the enter of Bat Olziit Soum Center. |
